| George
Mallory and Andrew “Sandy” Irvine who vanished
near the summit of Mt. Everest in 1924, 29 years before Edmund
Hillary and Tenzing Norgay accomplished the first summit,
left one of the most enduring mysteries in mountaineering
history – did they summit or not.
To this day, despite two expeditions in 1999 and 2001 to
search for clues high on Mt. Everest, the riddle still has
not been solved. Artifacts from Mallory’s 1924 expedition
have been found as well as Mallory’s body, but there
has been no conclusive evidence to end the speculation. Each
attempt to solve the mystery has only fueled further debate,
so that some writers have described the 1924 Mallory quest
as an expedition without end.
The lecture circuit and the books that were part of the
aftermath of the 1999 and 2001 expeditions brought to the
forefront of the debate the critical missing pieces to solving
the puzzles of the legend. The answer may lie in recovery
of Andrew Irvine’s camera or cameras. The film may be
preserved by the dry, cold environment and contain evidence
of the pair’s highest point, including the summit.
To
date, no systematic search since 2001 has been made for Sandy
Irvine’s body and his camera. The current search is
now at a dead end. The lack of definitive results from the
first two expeditions plus the extreme difficulties of conducting
a high altitude search in rough, dangerous terrain may have
dissuaded any further exploration.
There is at least one person who has guarded a secret that
he knows the general area, high on the Northeast ridge of
Mt. Everest, where Sandy Irvine’s camera may be. His
name is Chhiring Dorje Sherpa. He speaks with the perspective
of a 32 year old professional climbing guide who has summited
Mt. Everest a total of six times, twice without any supplemental
oxygen. At present he has either organized or climbed as a
member of at least 27 Himalayan mountain expeditions. He was
born and raised in the Rolwaling Valley in the shadow of the
southern face of Mt. Everest. He is familiar enough with the
Northeast ridge of Mt. Everest to make an educated guess as
to where Sandy Irvine’s camera may be.
After our paths crossed for the first time in the village
of Tingri, Tibet, and after I invited Chhiring to train and
run in an annual race up a mountain in Seward, Alaska called
Mt. Marathon, Chhiring asked me to help him in putting together
an expedition to search for Sandy Irvine’s camera.
Chhiring
saw the need for additional equipment, manpower, and money
for such an expedition. The scale of such a project exceeded
that of any expedition that he had organized in the past.
Equipment such as metal detectors, oxygen, medical supplies,
safety hardware and equipment, expedition clothing, and camping
gear must be planned for well in advance. Money for climbing
permits, yaks, food, porters, and hazardous duty pay for climbing
sherpas must be raised. The manpower requirements will be
filled by at least 10 climbing sherpas to do the searching
for Sandy Irvine’s camera, in addition to a sizeable
support staff of porters and kitchen personnel.
We are starting now in 2006 in the planning process for
a spring 2008 expedition. An exploratory expedition will take
place starting in late March 2007 which, hopefully, will place
Chhiring and I high on the northeast ridge of Mt. Everest
photographing the search site.
We are in need of sponsors who want to support and participate
in the upcoming expeditions. Please email Bill English at
wdenglish7001@hotmail.com
if you have any questions.
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